From Ottoman Taverns to Homebrew Kitchens: Tracing Turkey’s Beer History

Good morning. I am currently on vacation in Turkey, writing to you from Cappadocia best known for their daily hot air balloon spectacles, which my wife and I were able to experience this morning. If you ever have the chance to experience this, I highly recommend it - it’s touristy, but for a very good reason; it’s truly magical.

This article is dedicated to brewing history in Turkey, because that’s where my head is at (literally).

-Brandon Copeland

From Ottoman Taverns to Homebrew Kitchens: Brewing Tracing Turkey’s Beer History

Most of us think of the Ottoman Empire and picture palaces, coffeehouses, and complex trade routes—but beer? It turns out there was a vibrant beer culture long before the modern Turkish craft scene emerged. From early barley ales at imperial feasts to neighborhood taverns in Istanbul, understanding that legacy can shed light on why today’s homebrewers in Turkey chase certain styles or ingredients.

So, what did beer look like under Ottoman rule, and how (if at all) does it influence the homebrew kettles of modern-day Turkey?

Beer in the Ottoman Era: More Than Just Wine and Raki

Contrary to popular belief, beer wasn’t entirely absent from Ottoman menus. While wine, raki (anise spirit), and sherbet drinks were more common, historical records and travelers’ accounts mention beer—often brewed by local minorities or imported from neighboring Balkans and Central Europe.

• Balkan and Levantine Influence
  In port cities like Salonika (Thessaloniki) and Smyrna (Izmir), where European traders mingled with Ottoman subjects, barley and wheat beers were imported or locally brewed. These regions had Christian and Jewish communities familiar with beer traditions, so local taverns would offer ales and lagers alongside more traditional Ottoman beverages.

• Imperial Banquets and Foreign Dignitaries
  Ottoman sultans sometimes hosted European envoys—when entertaining these guests, beer or beer-like drinks made a cameo alongside wine and sherbets. Records from the 17th and 18th centuries mention “arıtma” (a fermented barley drink) being served to foreign dignitaries as a courtesy.

• Homebrewing in Rural Anatolia
  In Anatolian villages, households occasionally fermented barley into a simple, low-alcohol gruel-like “beer” for domestic use. It wasn’t a large-scale industry, but these local ferments—known by names like “boza” (a cereal-based fermented drink) or “tarhana” brews—demonstrated a rudimentary, home-based fermentation tradition that wasn’t far removed from small-batch beer.

Decline and Rebirth: Where Ottoman Brewing Left Off

By the mid-19th century, as Western-influenced breweries began setting up in Istanbul (e.g., the Bomonti Brewery in 1894), Ottoman-style home ferments gave way to industrial lagers. The collapse of the Empire and the rise of the Turkish Republic further centralized alcohol regulation, and beer became associated with large commercial breweries—most notably Efes and Tuborg in the 20th century.

For decades, beer in Turkey meant pilsner-style lagers making their way into bars and families buying six-packs from corner markets. The old village ferments and small-scale ales faded into memory… until recently.

Modern Turkish Homebrewing: Rediscovering Roots and Global Trends

Over the last decade, Turkey’s craft beer and homebrew communities have exploded. You’ll now find Istanbul homebrew clubs trading yeast strains, Anatolian hop harvesters foraging for local wild hops, and experimental batches mixing Turkish spices (like sumac or bay leaf) into ales.

• Rediscovering Anatolian Grains
  Inspired by ancient fermentation practices (boza, tarhana), some homebrewers are revisiting heirloom barley and wheat varieties native to Anatolia. These grains offer slightly different starch profiles and protein content—yielding beer flavors that echo old village ales more than imported pilsners.

• Local Hops and Botanical Adjuncts
  While classic hops are still dominant, there’s growing interest in Turkish-grown hop varieties from regions like Uşak and Çorum. Combined with traditional botanicals—sage, thyme, even rosehips—brewers try to craft distinctly Anatolian “heritage beers.”

• Homebrew Clubs and Cultural Exchange
  Groups like “Istanbul Brew Crew” host “Ottoman Classics” nights where members attempt historical recipes (translated from Ottoman Turkish manuscripts) and compare notes. Some recipes call for souring gruels akin to boza, while others mimic the weak barley ales noted by 18th-century travelers.

We were able to visit one new craft brewery in Istanbul called SomX at their taproom (TaproomX) in the Galata district. The beer was excellent - we had pale ales and IPA’s, that they were flavorful and bold.

Is Ottoman Beer History a Secret Ingredient for Your Next Brew?

While most modern Turkish homebrewers lean on international styles (IPAs, stouts, wheat beers), a growing faction experiments with recipes inspired by Ottoman-era ferments—low ABV, grain-forward, spiced, or soured. But does that humble barley “aruţma” from centuries ago truly inform what you’ll taste in a glass today?

That’s the question: is exploring that heritage merely a fun historical project, or could it become a cornerstone of Turkey’s homebrew identity?

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Beer Trivia Question

🍺 Which major Turkish lager brand is named after the ancient city of Ephesus, linking modern beer culture to Anatolia’s historical roots?

Read to the end to find out if you're right!

Brewgr Recipe of the Week

Next Vienna Lager

I’ve likely shared a similar recipe in a previous newsletter, but I can’t help it - I’m partial to the style due to the Vienna Lager at Devil’s Backbone Brewing Company in Virginia. This all grain recipe leverages primarily Vienna malt and Saaz hops, with the classic Fermentis lager yeast for fermentation.

Credit: Brewer 147216

Poll Results: What’s Your Go To Mash Thickness?

This poll is a tough question in some ways because mash thickness can change depending on the style you are brewing. However, 1.25 qt/lb is the most common thickness recommended and if you’re unsure otherwise, it’s a great place to start when creating new recipes.

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And the Answer Is...

🍺 Efes Pilsen (commonly known simply as “Efes”) takes its name from the ancient city of Ephesus - called “Efes” in Turkish - which was one of the most important cultural and commercial centers of the ancient world. Located near present-day Selçuk in western Turkey, Ephesus was famed for its grand architecture (including the Temple of Artemis) and its role as a major port city in antiquity.